Danny Bowien’s Mission Chinese Food has been making NYC diners sweat all summer long with innovative Sichuan-inspired dishes like Kung Pow Pastrami and Thrice Cooked Bacon. Since this San Francisco outpost opened its doors on the Lower East Side, it has been absolutely packed wall-to-wall (and out the door) with people looking for some fire. While I was waiting for my table, I sat down with General Manager Allen Yuen (a Gansevoort and Cooper Square Hotel alum) to get an inside look at the city’s hottest dining spot.

Chicken Wings—The Aftermath

What is the secret to always getting a seat when you come?

Allen: Come early. Come at 530. Anyone that waits more than an hour and a half, that’s really cool. We try to be very gracious by offering complementary sparkling water and beer. And VIP people wait as well.

What differentiates Mission Chinese Food from other Chinese restaurants in the city? What do you think makes it so popular?

Allen: In most Chinese restaurants, certain dishes have been made the same for thousands of years. Danny looks at food and is like “how can I make this better?” He approaches it from a different perspective. He also uses better ingredients. Everything is sourced locally within New York. Beers are from Brooklyn. The wine on tap is from upstate New York.

When you guys were opening, were there any hiccups? 

Allen: Hiccups are part of running a restaurant. There are problems every day. But we find a solution to it. The plumming doesn’t work-—we need to find a solution. We have a very dedicated staff who go above and beyond. Before I turn around, I know they’re there. And it takes time to develop that trust.

Right now Mission Chinese is new, it’s a novelty. What will you do to keep people coming back?

Allen: The menu is always changing and we’re always changing the cocktail menu too. The important part is taking care of everyone who walks in here because we want people to come back. We also do charitable things. Eating is generally a very selfish thing—when we eat, we don’t really think about other people. But here, thinking about other people is our top priority.